All this month I am writing about aspects of Indian textiles, a quick but captivating dive into the saree specifically, a garment worn by Indians for five millennia. Come with me into the diverse, complex and utterly fascinating world of yarn and thread, of skills and techniques of dyeing and printing and embroidery, traditions unchanged for centuries. Of sumptuous finished fabrics that not only make a fashion statement, but also constitute our cultural and political identity.
Dhaniakhali is a village around 60 km from Kolkata and is famous for its cotton handloom sarees known by the same name, a staple in Bengali women's wardrobe. I have grown up seeing both my grandmothers, aunts and mother in Dhaniakhali sarees. I have worn them myself to work as an adult. These slightly coarse, budget cotton handloom sarees are unmatched in elegance and eminently comfortable for daily work wear.
The Dhaniakhali saree is typically woven on 80 and 100 count yarns, characterised by plain borders and a raised braided pattern called 'Dhaaner sheesh' (rice ear) on the weft marking the
end of the aanchal.
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Detail of Dhaaner sheesh or rice ear braided pattern at the aanchal end ofthe saree - a typical feature of Dhaniakhali. |
Traditionally they were woven with unbleached plain yarns for the body and naturally dyed, darker yarns for the flat 1.5"-3'' borders, starched with a mixture of sago, popped rice and wheat slurry that gave the saree its characteristic papery but dense feel. The designs were limited to stripes, checks and geometric motifs that were possible on the simpler dobby looms. Nowadays features like jacquard style motifs and tie-n-dye designs have been introduced to attract newer consumers. However, the original stripes or duray-kata designs such as jol duray ('water stripes') or khorkey duray ('louvre stripes') have practically disappeared amidst the slew of innovations to stem the slow erosion of both demand and weaving skills.
One of the greatest challenges faced by the handloom industry is that it is threatened by dwindling demand and therefore profitability. Sarees have become occasional wear for many younger women. The descendants of weavers are turning away from these generationally handed down skills and crafts, few want to take up the family profession of their forefathers.
Even so, the Dhaniakhali saree is championed by no less a personality than the Chief Minister of the state of West Bengal, Mamata Banerjee. The saree was also granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag to help promote awareness and protect its authenticity. Read more about the Dhaniakhali saree here and here. And watch a short clip on the process below:
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Did you know that the Dhoti is the masculine counterpart of the saree and is an unstitched length of fabric used traditionally by Indian men? It differs only in that it is less ornate, usually white/plain, has a narrower border and is around 4m in length as compared to the saree at 5-6 m. Both these garments were draped traditionally by knotting them around the waist. While the saree is still in common use among Indian women, most Indian men have switched to western garments for daily wear, and many men do not know how to drape the dhoti anymore.
Thank you for reading. And happy A-Zing to you if you are participating in the challenge.